The latest installment of Paris Men’s Fashion Week has brought out a slew of new trends and looks that portend a vibrant new chapter for menswear. Driving the season was a sense of gender fluidity that continued to challenge traditions of masculinity and femininity and how they are expressed in fashion.
1. Loewe Chia Pet Sneakers
Anderson took that curiosity and transplanted it into existing notions of sustainable fashion in Loewe’s Spring/Summer 23 men’s collection – literally. Using plants grown on a series of materials that took around 20 days to grow into the desired look (and were grown in a polytunnel on the outskirts of Paris in collaboration with Paula Ulargui Escalona), the designer affixed herbs and botanicals to clothing and footwear, creating a collection designed as “a fusion of the organic and the manufactured,” according to the label’s runway notes. While the actual elements of sustainable fashion in the manufacturing process remain to be seen as this collection goes to market, this pair of sneakers oddly resembles a Chia pet shoe – in the best possible way.
2. Christian Louboutin Party Heels
Since 2019, Christian Louboutin has been at the forefront of changing definitions of masculinity in menswear. What began as a series of modest heeled boots and oxfords in the brand’s Fall ’20 men’s collection has gradually progressed each season, paving the way – heels first – for the conversation about the fluidity of genres and how fashion shapes what she will look like, both on the runways and in real life.
Earlier this year, the designer presented “Our Angels”, a collection of gender-neutral heels made in an extended size range from 36 to 46. Now, Louboutin has given another vision of men in heels with the spring-summer collection 23 men’s brand. , which debuted last week at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. This pair of platform boots covered in colorful sequins celebrates the fashion shift of masculinity.
3. Thom Browne’s Tweed Western Boots
Many brands have been toying with gender fluidity lately, but Thom Browne managed to shock the most, of all the crop tops, cropped shorts and jumpsuits parading the catwalks at Paris and Milan Men’s Fashion Weeks. Using traditionally feminine tweed fabrics in traditionally feminine pastel hues, the designer sent out a range of bold garments – jock straps, sheath mini dresses, crop tops – paired with more traditional suiting. The best pairing came with western boots accented with blue tweed (a current trend dominating even the hottest temperatures this summer) and matching jock strap, chaps, cropped vest and hat for a full frontal look.
4. Dior’s molded rubber trekkies
For Dior’s summer 23 men’s collection, the brand’s artistic director of men’s fashion, Kim Jones, once again turned to artists – Christian Dior himself, but also the British painter Duncan Grant – to work on the idea of private spaces as points of inspiration. The result was a collection that was still decidedly sporty – in a good way; one that is more in tune with modern times than those of Jones’ muses. The collection summarily offered a vision of how a new sporty lifestyle (born out of the pandemic and its life-altering ways) could become just a bit more stylish as the idea of what to wear at day by day continues to change. It also added to the fashionable hiking trend that has been brewing in menswear since 2019. A pair of outdoor-focused molded rubber hybrid clogs hinted at both the outdoor life and the implications futuristic molded rubber shoe trend that swept menswear.
5. Louis Vuitton’s snowboard-inspired Technicolor boots
The brand continued to pay homage to the late Virgil Ablohy, its former artistic director of menswear, in a dynamic Spring ’23 collection that continues Abloh’s legacy of creativity, innovation and the use of the colour. Among a slew of homages (from ’90s skater culture, to fluid new ways of looking at suits, to a brilliant and successful revamp of the brand’s monogrammed accessories), a series of snowboard-inspired boots in hues equally colorful pays homage to snowboarding, a sport that Abloh personally loved and had used his influence to create change within it, albeit posthumously.
6. KidSuper’s 3D printed concept soles
In collaboration with 3D-printed shoe company Zellerfeld, the brand presented a shoe that resembled both a heel and a sneaker with an extraordinarily high arch. The new “Heal Your Soul, Heel Your Sole” concept shoe also featured an alluring (albeit slightly spooky) face on its upper.
7. Amiri’s MA Two sneakers
The Los Angeles-based designer has expanded his sneaker repertoire this season with the introduction of the MA Two, a shoe that’s very California-inspired: the world of skateboarding. Its exaggerated dimensions, oversized rubber sole and perforated star detailing are sure to be sought-after design cues much in the way the designer’s Skel-Tops have gained recognition in recent years.
9. Reese Cooper x Merrell Hydro Moc
Marking his first official live appearance on the Paris calendar with a runway show and presentation titled “Seed & Soil,” Reese Cooper continued his shoe run, showing off the popular Wilson style and new Lanier boot. But it was a new Hydro Moc (in an ongoing partnership with Merrell) that captured the moment.
9. Nahmias’ retro sneakers
Another Los Angeles-based designer, Doni Nahmias has introduced shoes to her much-loved collection this season. Dubbed ‘Five-O’, the chunky-soled low-top sneaker seems like the perfect anchor for all the maximalist prints and patterns found in the brand’s co-ords.
10. Y/Project western boots
Were they men’s or women’s boots? A pair of dark but elaborate backstage western boots from Y/Project suited almost anyone at any time.